The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk (review)

 

Of the plethora of fashion exhibitions to enter the museum galleries, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier: From the Sidewalk to the Catwalk currently on view at San Francisco’s de Young Museum is both an expected, almost-necessary contribution and a cutting-edge risk taker. Gaultier needs little introduction—who can forget Madonna’s cone bras and corsets—and the exhibition wisely eliminates any, plunging the visitor directly onto the catwalk. The designer himself, as a digitally enhanced speaking manikin provides a few pithy quotes beside a striking array of gowns from the Virgins collection. They set the stage for his body of work as a whole, beautiful, intricate, wonderfully creative and at times shocking.

Occupying the entire special exhibition space at the de Young, The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier is extensive, presenting the breath and variation in the designer’s career. Film footage of the haute couture runway shows serve as reminders of the total artistic idea behind each of the intricately hand-crafted pieces, strongly arguing for their inclusion in the museum world of fine arts—an argument that although trite is certain to surface. There were not any avenues of inspiration Gautier left untouched, Marie Antoinette, ballet, Victorian men’s and women’s wear (often for the opposite sex), traditional dress of cultures from all corners of the globe, traditional business attire, matador costumes, animals and of perhaps most famously sadomasochist erotica. Sexuality is boldly celebrated in Gaultier’s entire body of work. Where other designers might amplify sexy or sensuality, Gaultier addresses transgender and gender. He cross-dresses and androgenizes confronting his viewers and finding new avenues for creativity and dialogue.

Refreshing in the de Young’s presentation is the clothes on their own terms, as finely crafted artworks. The designer’s collaborations with Madonna and recently with Lady Gaga are mentioned but are not the curatorial focus. The show comes to a dramatic end with a simulated runway show of ready-to-wear designs from the past decade, which, like all the show’s displays allow up close observation of all of the intricate and highly finished details.

Nationwide, museums have turned a corner in a close observation of the fashion world. Shows like The Fashion World of Jean Paul Gaultier is a strong contribution to this trend.

 

The exhibition will be on view at the de Young until August 19, 2012