I’ve never had duck with maple syrup before. Turns out I’ve been missing out. To me it isn’t one of those natural couplings like fish and chips or gin and tonic, but traditions have to build somewhere. Maybe in twenty years whenever duck is served the cry will go up Have you got any maple syrup? If so the world will have to thank the Duck and Waffle, Britain’s highest restaurant.
Located on the 40th floor of the Heron tower in the City you’ll be glad you visited as soon as you see the views. This is the Hong Kong/New York part of town with skyscrapers and bright lights. There’s a vibe that you are in a city that – if it sleeps at all – just takes a quick nap without bothering to put on its pyjamas.
It is high up. The Heron tower reaches 230 metres. The lift is smooth, fast and glass fronted so you can see London falling on its knees to worship you as you rise. Actually that’s probably not what it’s doing. That could even be blasphemy. Scrub that sentence.
Once I’d arrived at the 40th floor I couldn’t hear until my ears had popped. But I could taste. Which was lucky. This is the sort of food that looks intriguing on the plate and tastes even better.
Everything is designed to share, so make sure you visit with the less-greedy of your friends or you won’t get a look in. We started with bacon-wrapped dates, chargrilled aubergines and onion and anchovy-topped bread. Good choices all. Sweet, smoky, salty with several different textures, they were all soon demolished. Next we tried foie gras crème brûlée with butter-roasted lobster This ought to be on more menus. Maybe it should even be our national dish. But even though it’s good don’t go mad and order seven. A taste of the creamy sweetness is enough.
Pigs’ ears came next. TBH pigs’ ears aren’t something that are usually on my shopping list but I liked the way they were served, in a brown paper bag, sealed with a red wax seal as though Elizabeth I or the pope was in charge of the kitchen. In fact it’s chef Daniel Doherty.
Duck & Waffle at the Duck & Waffle
The signature dish, after which the restaurant is named is, well you can probably work out the main ingredients. It is an unusual looking concoction, a waffle on which is a crispy leg confit, on which is a large-yolked duck egg. On the side is a rustic jug of maple syrup and mustard. It was unusual, but I hadn’t realised the power of maple syrup. Of course it’s sweet and not a health food but I’m beginning to think it could be the key to success in the kitchen. I might start adding it to everything.
Pudding was French toast and ice cream. I planned to just have a taste, right up until I tasted it. Then I ate the whole thing. I’m a bit annoyed with myself, but the buttery crunch, the sweet caramel… If you prick us do we not bleed? If a pudding is rambunctious do we not eat it – as Shylock is believed to have said in the now lost first draft of The Merchant of Venice.
Last night I wasn’t sure I’d ever be hungry again. Unfortunately I’m already wondering what to have for lunch. Maybe a small cheese sandwich. With Maple syrup.
Suggest a restaurant we should visit – food@flaneur.me.uk
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